While I was planning my return to France during the summer of 2018, a stay at Le Refuge de Montenvers was already on my mind. This is no ordinary refuge. (I'll share a couple of those in the future!) This is much more of a hotel, 'a luxury refuge', in a setting like no other. Accessible by a cogwheel train departing from the Chamonix valley, Montenvers welcomes you at an altitude of 1913 meters with an impressive panorama of Le Mer De Glace (The Sea of Ice), les Drus, et les Grandes Jorasses.
The refuge dates back to 1880 and was exquisitely renovated by Maisons et Hotels Sibuet in 2017. Everything about my stay was magical: from the train ride up in the afternoon to my cozy fondue dinner, to the beautiful breakfast buffet and snowy jaunt the next morning.
To access the refuge from Chamonix, you hop on the red storybook train at the station in town. A round-trip train ride costs about 34 euros. The slow, winding journey through the forest, complete with sweeping views of the valley, is very much a part of the experience. Inclement weather could impede your visit, as the train will not run in unsafe conditions. In this case, the staff will provide you with adequate warning and the option to re-book your stay. They called me the day before to let me know the weather looked questionable, but in the end the train was able to run for my stay as scheduled.
With your train ticket, you can also take the télécabine down to La Grotte de Glace during the winter season and explore the heart of the glacier.
Once you've taken in your first views, you'll walk a couple hundred meters to the Refuge. The reception is warm, beautifully decorated in chalet style, respecting both the history of Montenvers and embracing modern luxuries. They have a selection of rooms from which you can reserve: the dormitory, and private rooms accommodating 2-7 people. I opted for Le Dortoir which can accommodate up to 10 people. But this is not a classic refuge dormitory. It is clean, with proper hotel bedding and curtains to draw over each bunk, and electrical outlets galore. I certainly lucked out on my visit- I was the only dormitory guest for the night! The bathrooms are located down the hallway, and you can request Pure Altitude products at reception.
One of the best parts of staying at Terminal Neige as a guest, is that you get to appreciate the beautiful views early in the morning before the trains of tourists arrive, and in the evening when the train stops running. In the evening, I walked out to the panorama and enjoyed le Mer de Glace fading in and out of the sight, and a crescent moon hanging over les Drus, all to myself.
Included in the 90 euro fee for a one night stay in the dormitory (prices run up significantly for a private room!) is dinner at the restaurant and access to the breakfast buffet. You can have a look at the menu here. You are offered a choice of an entrée and main dish, and a desert planche. I opted for the fondue as my main dish. Fondue could not be more appealing than when 1913 meters up a snowy mountain in the Alps! You can cozy up by the fireplace in the lobby or in the reading nook and enjoy drinks at the bar. It is the perfect winter escape.
In the morning, through my window, I watched the first train come in with supplies. The sun broke through between the mountains, and again it was a magical site to enjoy without crowds. Breakfast was lovely; the buffet is very comprehensive. I had hot chocolate, brioche, and fromage blanc topped with granola and fruit coulis.
During the day, you can borrow snowshoes at le Glaciorium just behind the hotel. However, they are only open after 14h00, so be sure to plan accordingly.
I'm very much looking forward to my next stay at Terminal Neige.
You can reserve your visit during the winter or summer season through their website here.
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